Grow Fruit Trees

Sheena Adams | Image: Terry Guscott | Published: April 01, 2005
Print this article Email this article Share this article Text sizetext sizetext sizetext size

Spring is the time to start or expand the fruit-tree collection in your yard, and hitting the garden centre now will ensure the best selection.

GrowingFruitTrees_524.jpg

Planning

How to Grow a Peach Tree in a Container

The tropical look and hot-pink blossoms of a genetic dwarf peach tree can add style to any full-sun area on a balcony or deck. Growing slowly to only 1.8 m (6 ft.) high and about 1m (3 ft.) wide, they are well suited for container planting. A side benefit of being grafted onto a dwarf rootstock is that they produce peaches within two years.

Choose a container that’s a minimum of 50 by 50 cm (20 by 20 in.). Make sure it has adequate drainage to prevent the roots from rotting.

Nestled into its container, this peach tree is fully hardy to -15 C (5 F); if your growing area gets colder than that, simply tuck it into a protected spot or cool shed. Peach trees are lovers of dry cold but dislike wet cold.

Excess rain on the unfurling leaves will encourage peach leaf curl, a disfiguring fungal disease that causes the leaves to become reddish, puckered and curled. To counteract the fungus, spray with dormant oil and immediately remove any leaves that show signs of infection. An ideal way to grow a peach tree is espaliered into a fan shape on a trellis against the south side of a wall or under a plastic roof, where it is kept relatively dry through winter and early summer.

Peaches are self-pollinating, which means you only need one tree to produce sweet-tasting fruit. They require full sun, rich well-drained soil and regular watering. Pruning requirements are minimal: each spring simply nip out any diseased, damaged or dead branches. As with any fruit tree be sure to give it a heavy organic feeding in early spring with 250 mL (1 cup) of organic granular fertilizer, 60 mL (1/4 cup) of glacial rock dust and a light top dressing of fish or garden compost. This will supply the nutrients required for your tree to flourish all summer every time you water.

Choose a site with all-day sun and well-drained soil. Make sure the location can accommodate the mature size of the tree or trees you’re considering. Trees planted too close together will eventually shade each other and require unnecessary pruning to control size. Reduced air circulation also encourages pests and disease.

Match your choices to your climate. No matter how much you like a certain type of fruit, it may not do well and you will never have the satisfaction of a bountiful harvest. When purchasing, also inquire about pollination. Some trees are self-pollinating, but often they require a partner to produce fruit. If you live in a populated area chances are good there will be a mate for your tree within pollinating distance (3 km/1.8 mi.), but if you live at the end of a country road you’ll need to play matchmaker and provide a pollinating tree.

Planting

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. If you purchase your fruit tree bare root, look for the bud union scar and keep it about 2.5 cm (1 inch) above soil level. If you buy a newly potted tree and it has not leafed out yet, remove the whole root system from the pot and shake away the potting mix – “bare-rooting” the tree.

Take half the soil you removed from the planting hole and mix in equal parts of compost, manure, leaf mould or sea soil. Toss in 125 mL (1⁄2 cup) of bone meal and 250 mL (1 cup) of slow-release all-purpose organic fertilizer. (This is not recommended in heavy clay soils as it forms a “bathtub” and the roots rot.

Best to plant in the original soil and mulch with organic matter.) The organic matter will feed the tree, loosen the soil and get the beneficial micro-organisms working; the bone meal will settle the roots; and the fertilizer will add plant nutrients to the soil. You and your family will be eating the products of these trees, so leave the chemicals out of the edible garden.

Plant the tree only as deep as it was in the container – the number-one cause of fruit-tree death is planting too deep. Heel it in, backfill with the soil mixture and water deeply, as this encourages the roots to go down into the soil where they can anchor the tree and hide from summer heat and winter cold. For the first two summers, provide deep watering two to three times per week. Once established, a weekly watering will do.


Comments

We have a cherry tree,

By Anonymous, July 12, 2008 at 12:12

We have a cherry tree, planted two years ago, and now about 8 feet tall. It is graffed to have 4 varieties of cherries. Last year and this year again, it has had lots of flowers, then lots of tiny cherries, then most of the small green cherries have fallen off and the few that are left drop off the tree when pink/pale red. What's going on???

Organic Gardening Expert

By ybc, July 23, 2008 at 09:16

Organic Gardening Expert Sheena Adams responds:

It may be as simple as low trace minerals and calcium, this can reduce bloom production and cause fruit to drop. Consider an application of 1 cup glacial rock dust and 1/2 cup bone meal this fall and again next spring. Just sprinkle around the soil on the trees drip line.
Be sure that you are also pruning properly, an open middle to maximize light and air circulation is best, remembering that fruiting spurs are produced on horizontal wood, so do prune out anything growing straight up and encourage the branches to open up, also remove any branches which are diseased, damaged or dead. As you have many grafts pollination should not be an issue.

Hope this helps! Happy gardening - sheena

I just discoverd that we

By Anonymous, June 6, 2008 at 18:38

I just discoverd that we have a friut tree in our yard but i dont know what kind it is.
The prperty has been abandond for over a year and our garden has alot of different
trees and flowers.It looks like the tree in your picture with the woman holding a branch
what is this tree?

Organic Gardening Expert

By ybc, July 14, 2008 at 09:26

Organic Gardening Expert Sheena Adams responds:

The tree that I am pruning is an apple pear or a pear apple! In the early spring it is loaded with many white blossoms. Apple pears are interesting exotic fruits because they are a type of pear that looks very similar to an apple. Although their origins are from Asia apple pears are now grown in other regions including the Pacific North West. Apple pears are sweet and juicy fruits and are also known by the following names: Asian pear or oriental pear.

You can recognize an apple pear by its round, apple-like shape and by its firm texture.

It is a very productive tree, as well as vigorous, so be prepared to prune and feed a little extra.

They are wonderful, you are very lucky to have found such a treasure!

thanks
Sheena


Anonymous comments are welcome, but they must first go to an approval queue. Register here to join our online community, and then login to start posting immediately.


Visit all sites from Canada Wide Media Limited

bcbusinessonline.ca |canadawide.com | tvweekonline.ca | gardenwiseonline.ca |granvilleonline.ca